Day 17 - Monday, June 7th

This morning I shoveled more shit onto the potatoes. I know I should be grateful to be here and be doing this work, but I really am not. And I don't want to do the same thing every day. It is just so boring. And I don't like working alone. Where is the sense of community? Where is the conversation? Blah. It makes it feel like work. I came in a few hours later and freshened up. Then I went with Fiona again to the university. On the drive there we pass St Frances of Assis's monestary. It's actually kind of strange looking. It sort of juts out of the side of a mountain, and at night there is a light that shines up from below. It looks like it probably used to be flush with the mountain but bits have crumbled away since it's, I don't know, a fucking thousand years old and Italy is so goddamn seismic.

Fiona was talking about Italian beurocracy and how hard it is to get anything done in terms of building. She said that just to turn their garage into a living space they had to have a surveyor come out and they had to pay a bunch of money and make up this big proposal. And it took forever. And especially in the smaller villages they want to keep everything looking the same. So new houses have to be made out of stone and basically made out of all the same materials that every other ancient house is made out of. Fiona has a friend who is trying to build an eco village and make houses out of wood. She thinks wood is a good idea because "it can move, instead of just collapsing and crumbling...and if it does collapse on you, it is lighter..." and she's totally serious. I almost laughed out loud.

We also talked about the schools in the smaller villages. Her girls go to a school where 3rd, 4th and 5th year students are combined because the number of students is so low. And there is a woman in Corezzo (where the closest school is) who has a restaurant that is only open for dinner. So at lunch time she comes over to the school and cooks for the students and faculty. Can you imagine that? Fiona also said that a lot of bigger towns are starting to do 6 day school weeks, but have shorter days. So like 8:30 to 1:30, but 6 days a week. This isn't feasible for their school because for most of the kids it is quite a hike to get to the school so making that hike for a shorter day just doesn't make sense.

I had already seen most of San Sepolcro last week and it didn't excite me. I figured I'd just grab gelato and some fruit for dinner and head back to use the internet. But it was siesta and everything was closed. I tell you - it's almost the best time to see a town. It's like a ghost town and you have the whole place to yourself. Where do all these people go during siesta? Do they go home? Do they hide out in their shops with the shades drawn? Who knows. Even the church doors were locked. Eventually I got my chocolate gelato and it was damn good. Even better with alternating bites of my banana.

I used the computer for a few hours until Fiona was done teaching. She comes in after and says she doesn't understand how I can be on the computer for so long. Oh really? Well I don't understand how you can live in such a bull shit town without going fucking crazy. So I guess we're even.

The drive home was hilar. These fucking little back roads on the mountains are ridiculous. There are no lane lines and I would swear there was not room for two fucking smart cars to pass each other. But there is. My asshole puckers though whenever Fiona is like cruising along fast and then all of the sudden breaks and swerves for an animal. If it is like a fucking moose, then ok. But a goddamn little bunny? I love animals just as much as the next PETA protester, but I'm sorry....I'd rather have that furry carcas smeared on my tires rather then drive off the fucking mountain and plumet to my death. Wouldn't that be a funny way to go though...."Katie went to Italy for a summer of change and adventure....and her WWOOF host drove her off a cliff. The end."

Day 16 - Sunday June 6th

Today started out as another super boring day stuck on top of a mountain. I think I need to move on to another farm. This just isn't my scene at all and it's making me a little crazy.

Thankfully we went to the river in the afternoon. That was really beautiful. Kinda of looked like Slide Rock. Then the most beautiful Italian man came from out of nowhere, got down to his speedo and laid about 3 feet from me. Just laid there in all his glory reading his book and sunbathing. Most of the men there were wearing speedos. This please me.

We spent the afternoon there and it was nice and all, but I still feel like I need to go. I specifically avoided contacting farms that said they were in remote areas. I can't imagine what they must be like since this farm does not consider itself remote. It's insanely beautiful, but there is just nothing here. There is a bar that sometimes opens in the evenings. And it's really just for old people to play cards. And there is a post office that is open two mornings a week. I think I need more stimulation than that. Or maybe I don't. Maybe I just need different people and a place where the energy is better. So stimulation in a differeny way. There is only so much reading and writing and meditating and yoga-ing and self discovering that one can do before they want to pull their hair out. Or maybe I am just a whiny little bitch who needs to put her foot in her mouth. Who knows.

Oh, and Gaia? I might murder her if I stay. So this is another reason to go. She creeps me the fuck out. Even when she sleeps she looks fucking creepy. I keep fearing I am going to wake up with her standing over my bed, speechless, with a big cleaver and chop my fucking head off. After we got back from the river I was able to take a shower. It's only cold water unless someone hikes up to get wood for the water heater. Anyway, Gaia comes into the bathroom in the middle of my delicious shower and took a fucking dump! I know she's five and has no concept of personal boundaries, but it was just so perfect. I already want to smack the crap out of her and then she comes in and shits. What a bitch.

Day 15 - Saturday, June 5th

Today was one of the most boring days on record for my life I think. I guess not totally boring because I hung out with myself and wrote a lot and processed and ended the day with a big fat cry. So I suppose maybe it was absolutely necessary.

Day 14 - Friday, June 4th

After breakfast this morning, Fiona and I worked outside for a while. I finished covering the potatoes with all of that awesome poop. Then I weeded the carrot patch for a while. I think weeding might be my new favorite thing. It just looks so pretty when you're done. It is a lot of work though - all of this land. I can't believe David made Care-A-Lot by himself. What a crazy thought.

Then the bells rang, which meant it was noon. They ring ever day at noon and 6:30pm. Fiona and I went inside and made lunch. Rice, lentils, fried zucchini and this cauliflower/potato/ginger mash up. Yum!

I do not like being bored. Or lonely. Both really suck. If I can keep busy then everything is A-ok. But it's the moments of down time that really get me. Or when the neighbors are coming in and out dropping stuff off or calling their kids home and everyone is chattering so fast and I don't understand anything they are saying. It's funny because I feel totally welcome here, but at the same time like such an outsider. I wish I could shake this sinus thing too. I am so tired of coughing and not being able to breathe. It's funny though, I'm used to it now.

Later in the evening Fiona dropped me and the girls off at the field at the bottom of the hill. She had a private English lesson and figured Gaia and I could watch Nila's football game while she was gone. Seemed easy enough, but jesus christ Gaia is a hand full. She is non stop and can be super obnoxious. But I love Italian accents speaking English. She drew a picture and came up to me and said "Thees ees a weetch." I love it.

Everyone got really into the game and it was funny hearing all the stuff they were screaming. Also - Italian snack bars - waaaaay better than anything I've ever encountered at home. Better than the concessions at Yankee Stadium even. Fresh bread with thinly sliced proscuitto, crepes with nutella, a pita with tomato, motzerella and balsamic. Seriously. None of this hot dog and nacho shit.

By the end of the game though Gaia was starting to get to me and I was checking my phone every few minutes dying for Fiona to get there. I was so happy to see her. I do babies. I don't do kids. No thank you.

Day 7 - Friday, May 28th

This morning I woke up feeling better, but still pretty shitty. Terra and I went to Whole Foods for breakfast. Then we went over and napped in Central Park. There was a dude trying to sell us stuff and Terra was politely saying no at first, but he was super persistent. She squealed in her sweetest voice ever "Absolutely fucking no!" I think I will laugh about that til the day I die. Magda met up with us a bit later and Terra did a body talk session on her that was really fantastic. Magda was so receptive. It was great. Then Terra did a session on me that was so incredible rockin - I'll spare the details here, but if you'd like to know - email me!

I was still feeling like crap and I knew that I needed a hot shower, a warm bed and some more good food or I was really in for it. So I went on Priceline and got us a hotel. And a bangin hotel at that. We grabbed more yummies at Whole Foods and checked into our fabulous paradise:

It was incredibly hip and chic and the staff was super friendly. Here's the view from our window:

They totally gave us the sex room too. It was kind of funny. It's set up where basically the shower is a stall shower, but it's all glass. And it's open on three sides. So a person could be lying bed watching his lover shower through the glass. That's how it's set up. It was kind of funny. Of course you can close a curtain and have some privacy too :)

I took the worlds most amazing shower and just stayed wrapped in a towel under the covers. Terra made me some tea and spread out our feast on the bed. I talked to Pam and she helped me (in addition to all that Terra had done) process a lot of what was going on that I think also contributed to me not feeling so hot. I did a lot of writing, took another hot shower and then we went sleep early.

Day 13 - Thursday, June 3rd

Today I was in kind of a funk. I woke up and felt lonely. It didn't help going downstairs and having it be empty. I got some breakfast and then Armando came back. He was running off somewhere for the weekend though. We took a quick walk through the fields and he showed me three huge piles of manure that needed to be spread on the rows of potatoes that are just starting to come up in the field. Working in the field is the most beautiful place on earth. Seriously - remember that scene in The Sound of Music when Julie Andrews is spinning circles and singing 'The hills are alive....with the sound of music....' That's what this place looks like.

It started raining so I couldn't finish shoveling the shit. I went inside the shed and started priming pieces of fencing that will be put up to keep the neighboring farms horses out. Still feeling lonely. It's just me in the shed and I wish there were others around. There is another couple coming to WWOOF next week and I look forward to that. But still I enjoy myself. I love the sound of the rain on the roof.

After lunch Fiona and I left for San Sepolcro - she teaches Thursday nights. On the way we stopped at a big chain grocery store and I noticed that just about everything was labeled clearly, and almost everything was local. How cool is that? Afterwards we parked at the school and I went off to explore the town.

A drinking fountain....

I started walking through town and feel totally scared and weird. I feel like everyone is staring at me and one look and they know I'm American and don't speak Italian. It's silly, I know, but it's how I felt. I am scared to talk to anyone. I know I have to though if I want to get something to eat. I wander the narrow streets and take lots of amazing pictures. It starts to sprinkle rain. This makes me feel better.

I find a bench to rest on and no one seems to be noticing me. This I prefer. I decide that I don't like traveling alone, especially somewhere I don't speak the language. But I will of course make the best of my current situation. I hope I can remember where the school is. I feel I have a general idea of which direction I came and I am thankful for that. I try to think of more things to be tahnkful for. I feel better.

I stumble into the piazza and go inside the basilica there. I love the way old churches smell. Like old library books. I sit there for a while and take a one minute vacation that turns into like 20 minutes of daydreaming. I'm not even gonna say what I dreamt about. It's way too embarassing. But it was great!

I see a frutta e verdura shop and I feel ok going in here. I think I am getting more and more sensitive to energy because this was the first shop I even considered going in. All the others felt way to intimidating. The lady in here was nice. Ciao, ciao, we exchange polite greetings. I grab some food and go find a spot to sit. There is a water fountain coming out of the wall so I fill up my container. I go back to the basilica steps and sit and eat.

Afterwards I work up enough courage to go into the gelato shop. I feel good. There is no one else in the shop and the girl at the counter has a sweet face. Ciao, I say. Per me un nociola. She says something really fast in Italian. Thank the fuck christ Italians talk with their hands or I would've had no fucking idea what she was saying. Si, si, a cone, per favore. She says something else really fast and I manage to make out 'piccolo' with the inflection of a question. I say Si, si, piccolo. I make it out of there unscathed.

I feel less like I'm sticking out like a sore thumb now that I have my gelato cone. Like, how dumb could I be? I found the gelato shop and ordered myself a cone, right? There seems to be nothing more Italian then strolling through the piazza at this hour with gelato. Everyone else is doin it.

There are more people out now too. I like this. A little boy waves at me from his dads shoulders. I think of everything I could've said moments too late. It's ok. I'll get quicker with my Italian.

There aren't many fat Italians I notice. There is very little traffic. Most town squares are closed off to traffic. An old woman walks by wearing a tight white t shirt with fake necklaces printed on it. Lots of old ladies on bicycles.

There are groups of people with bags full of fresh rose petals making amazing designs in the street. I flash to Danielle throwing rose petals on me that day I lay naked in the clovers.

People really stare here. I notice this. I hope it's because they think I am cute. I feel this one guy staring at me as he is walking by. I look up and he smiles and nods. I blush, smile and look back down at my journal. I am shy in Italy. A group of four walk by my for the second time in a few minutes. They whistle. I smile, but I don't look up. I don't feel like engaging four Italian boys. No really, I don't. Haha.

I start walking back to the school. It is sunset - my favorite time of day. I feel like I am on top of the world. I am in a beautiful neighborhood and the weather is perfect. Yes, yes, yes.

And I am a writer? Armando asks what I do....do I paint? No. Do I sing? No. Do I play an instrument? No. Then he sees me writing and exclaims: 'OH!! You are a WRITER. Ok, this is good, this is your art'.

Day 12 - Wednesday, June 2nd

I am still sick today and I wake up with practically no voice. I take a hot shower, drinks loads of tea and gargle salt water. This seems to help.

I had barely coffee this morning. It was way yummy.

Fiona and Armando talk to each other a lot. It is really cute. You can tell they just like being around each other.

This afternoon we drive down to Rimbocchi to get water. It comes out of a random fountain in the wall. There is a sign that says 'Non Potabile'. I don't say anything. I figure Fiona knows what's up. She comments that all the water in Italy has been privatized so the rates are sky high. This water says non-potable because it's not treated, but that's why the drink it - because it's not treated with chlorine.

On the drive home we pass St. Francis of Assisi's monestary. Beautiful!

We get home and everyone takes siesta. What a delicious nap. I slept for two hours.

I wake up and Gaia wants crackers with cream cheese and sliced tomatoes. What a funny thing for a 5 year old to want. They are all into food though. Gaia and Nila both reach for the veges on their own. And it is all so fresh and healthy.

Fiona and I start dinner and I get some more amazing recipe ideas. A layer of thinly sliced potatoes, then salt and a drizzle of olive oil, then repeat. Top with warmed oat milk mixed with tumeric and bake until crispy and brown on top. Delish!

Burgers....white rice, chopped sunflower seeds, shredded carrots, finely diced onion, oregano - shaped and fried in oilive oil.

The kids don't watch TV or go on the computer. Everyone is outside until 11 o clock at night. It is so relaxed and stress free.

The kitchen:

Little walkway in between the gardens:

Corn

Lettuce

More of the garden:

A little green house. And a carrot patch.

Picnic table under the grape vines

View from the field on the side of the hill:

Mmmm....right off the tree....

Little street in front of the house